When David Gross discovered almost 30 carats of rare Mozambique rubies he knew he had to create something spectacular. The result? An outstanding one-of-a-kind ruby and diamond necklace worth almost half a million pounds.
Rare natural rubies
Based in New York City, third generation jeweller David Gross comes from a long line of gemmologists and is dedicated to creating jewellery that excentuates the natural beauty of the world’s most sought-after precious gems. This results in unique, heritage pieces that can be enjoyed for generations.
A few years ago David discovered a rare layout of natural marquise shaped rubies, and immediately knew he wanted to create a piece of jewellery that would do these unique gems justice. “All the jewellery we make is designed to be extremely precise in all its measurements and we couldn’t figure out what to do with this layout as not every stone is the same size. For a while I thought of just pairing up earrings but it would be a shame to break apart such a unique set of gems. Then we came up with a few concepts and had them drawn to scale. As soon as I saw this one I knew it would be the winner.”
It took two months to find the perfect stones
Sitting at 15.5 inches long, the collar necklace design is faultless. It’s incredibly rare to have such a large layout of beautiful crimson rubies that are natural without any treatments to improve the stones. Add to the selection of diamonds handpicked for their outstanding colour, clarity and cut, and the end result is extraordinary. “I wanted to create a piece that was fine enough to be worn by most women and one wouldn’t feel that it is too overbearing or showy.” After finalising the design, the next step for David was to find worthy diamonds to sit alongside the rubies. In cushion and marquise cut diamonds particularly, there are so many ways to facet the stones. “We had to find them all identical so that the light return would be the same for all the diamonds chosen. It took around two months of searching to find all the stones needed. They were purchased from many manufacturers around the world and we wanted each diamond to have a GIA report regardless of its size.”
“I actually didn’t submit the necklace to that category as it has the most submissions of any category and I thought I would be pushing my luck too far. This was the first time we have submitted anything for a design competition and I wanted to give it a fair shot.”
Hours of expert craftsmanship
Hours and hours of intricate craftsmanship went into the making of this piece. Handcrafted from platinum wire, the design turned out to be much more complicated than David had initially thought. Adamant that each setting should be able to move on its own, it was extremely difficult to create the necklace without it becoming stiff and not lying correctly on the neck. “Each stone basket was made by hand specifically for that stone and then we made special rings at just the right angles to attach the baskets to each other. The result was and is a true masterpiece.”
1st place at the prestigious AGTA Spectrum Awards
Winning first place in the Evening Wear category of the prestigious AGTA Spectrum Awards Summer 2016 was a complete shock for David, as he hadn’t even entered the necklace into that category. “I actually didn’t submit the necklace to that category as it has the most submissions of any category and I thought I would be pushing my luck too far. This was the first time we have submitted anything for a design competition and I wanted to give it a fair shot.” However, the judges thought otherwise and switched it to that category, where it won with flying colours with the highest internal score of any item submitted to the competition. David could not be more thrilled with the result and is incredibly honoured to receive the recognition for all his hard work. “I work in a pretty closed environment and really never knew how other industry people think about our work. It felt good to know that other leaders in the jewellery industry feel the same passion we have for our work.”
So what does the future hold for this masterpiece? David hopes the lucky lady who will add this necklace to her collection will not only enjoy the way it feels to wear, but will also truly appreciate the time and effort put in to making this necklace a reality; “If she does, it will be time well spent.”